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H&M’s next designer collaboration is…Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang - aka the current king of all-black everything - will be the next big name to collaborate on one of H&M’s now legendary capsule collections. Announced at the Coachella music festival over the weekend in California, the designer and Balenciaga creative director follows in the footsteps of designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, Alber Elbaz and most recently Isabel Marant (who, for the first time, expanded her collection into clothes for men, women and children)…

While we know it’s set to feature mens- and womenswear, as well as a range of accessories, exact details are few and far between right now. Here’s hoping we’ll be seeing a wallet-friendly range infused with the New York-based designer’s sports-influenced signature - preferably in varying degrees of mix ​’n’ match monochrome.

  • Arriving 6 November 2014. hm.com
Night Terrors Of 1927 - Dust And Bones

Night Terrors Of 1927

Dust And Bones

A Guide To Contemporary Men’s Trouser Lengths

Article By Will Colman 

The Modern Suit Trouser

Few would argue against the suit being THE defining expression of menswear. More than anything else, a suit is the one thing we men can truly call our own.

It is also one of the only items that has clearly defined rules, particularly with regard to fit. Unlike casual trousers, shirts, t-shirts or coats, there is an accepted standard within suiting that creates a clear division between a suit that fits, and one that doesn’t.

Traditional tailoring guidelines dictate one break at the front of your suit trousers and straight down at the back, with the hems just brushing the top of the heel, ensuring that the trouser drapes properly and maintains its shape.

But with each passing year tailoring evolves. Reiss, Zara, Topman, HE by Mango and Suitsupply are just some of the labels producing contemporary suits that are identifiably more skinny, and often shorter, than the fuller cuts of eras past, meaning the old rules and guidelines are becoming less relevant and, in some cases, obsolete. Besides, rules are meant to be broken.

Modern slim/skinny suit trousers sit higher up on the shoe, due to a slimmer hem opening, meaning the material bunches (‘breaks’) at a much shorter length. They no longer drape down the back of the shoe, so standard rules don’t apply. The solution is to opt for a smaller half break or no break at all. This solves both the issue of length and brings your suit bang up to date by challenging the time-honoured conventions of tailoring.

These shorter trousers look particularly great during spring/summer, allowing you to get playful with your choice of sock (or lack thereof) as well as really show off your shoes – perfect for those that are looking to embrace the colour-pop footwear trend. Furthermore, it shows a genuine understanding of fit in that you have made a conscious decision to step away from tradition in the search for something altogether more individual.

However, if you choose a half or no break, bear in mind that the trousers should, at the very least, be slim-fitting to keep the lines sharp and tight.

Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Slim/Skinny Cut Suits Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

The Cropped Trouser


Cropping is in essence a development of the rule breaking going on above, although it can be applied to all styles, from chinos to tailored trousers.

When it comes to leg length, the idea is to reduce the amount of material gathering at the ankle to maintain and preserve the drape of the trouser. Leaving your trousers longer allows for hem rolling (discussed later) while cropping builds on the concepts already discussed – namely showing off shoes, socks or ankles and creating a pair of trousers that have very tight, defined and confident lines.

Although perhaps a little too informal for all but the most creative of office environments, when used in conjunction with statement or special occasion tailoring cropped trousers can be a real point of difference. A cropped leg is a much smarter alternative to rolling your trousers, which means they combine well with formal pieces such as blazers and sports coats.

Yet they are just as relevant for casual dressing. A pair of loafers, cropped trousers/chinos and a fitted tee is a superb summer look that strikes the ideal balance between dressing up and staying comfortable and cool.

Cropping works best on slim to skinny cuts. Wider legs suffer badly from the dreaded ankle swing and will require a lot of tapering. Classic cropped trousers should be slim from top to bottom, keeping a constant taper throughout. For an updated look, try tapering the bottom half of straight-legged trousers to create more experimental silhouettes and really push the boundaries – these slot nicely into Scandinavian work wear- or sportswear-inspired aesthetics.

The height you crop to depends largely on your choice of footwear. Around ankle height suits the majority of shoe silhouettes but don’t be afraid to crop higher if you want to wear them specifically with boots. For example, a pair of cropped wool trousers will look fantastic when paired with brogue boots or minimal leather hi-tops.

Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Cropped Trousers/Chinos Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

The Trouser Roll


Rolling your trouser hems is by far the most casual approach showcased today and also represents the easiest way to manipulate the length of your current legwear collection. Of course, rolling removes the need to alter the trousers in any way whatsoever, ensuring versatility if your footwear regularly switches between shoes and boots.

Despite the fact that the roll up will always give off a more relaxed air, it can work well in both formal and casual ensembles. In looks centred on tailoring, the roll helps to break up the lines and makes everything more playful – try combining with unstructured suiting for summer events or dress-down Friday in the office.

When it comes to the finer details, many brands have begun lining their trousers with printed or contrast colour fabrics, enabling you to consciously reveal the pattern/hue when the trousers are rolled – helping introduce a new point of interest and touch of character to any outfit.

Similarly, with selvedge jeans a roll up is almost a given as it shows off the instantly recognisable red stitching and selvedge edge, subtly signifying both your investment and knowledge of men’s style.

If you do decide that rolling is the best way to go, always bear in mind the size, weight and style of your shoes. Footwear that is slightly higher or chunkier, in terms of sole or general construction, will benefit from a roll that sits closer to the shoe. A large break between the two draws too much attention to your comparatively skinny ankles, distorting the proportions of your outfit and making the shoes appear clumpy.

With slimmer footwear styles you can take the roll higher because the shape is much tighter and you want to maintain the flow from trouser to shoe.

Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Rolled Up Trousers/Jeans/Chinos Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

Men’s SS14 Fashion Trend: Pop-Colour Footwear

Article By Shane C. Kurup @shanekurup

Slip-Ons & Loafers


The comfortable car shoe – a perennial favourite for the warmer months of the year – has received the bold-tone treatment, with many labels offering bright, energetic takes on this classic driving silhouette.

Ideal for adding a summery feel to everything from tees and chinos to shirts and shorts, they’re best worn with invisible socks for a clean and modern look. Scanning the high street, Zara’s sunshine-yellow take on the car shoe is guaranteed to put a spring in your stride this season.

Deck shoes, a legacy of maritime dressing, have cemented themselves comfortably into urban dress over recent years and are another classic warm-weather silhouette for pairing with predominantly casual attire. Reinterpreted in either two/three-tone designs or solid block-colour hues, they will provide an undeniably summery slant to any look. Why not opt for River Island’s pastel pink version for a softer take?

The monk-strap, whether double or single, has been the hero shoe for several seasons, with every runway and high street paying tribute to the style. Traditionally a dressy, formal silhouette the monk-strap has been given a fresh lease of life for SS14 via the use of unorthodox hues, in a brave move away from standard brown and black tones.

These alternative colours are a great way to add a contemporary edge to smart-casual or formal looks while maintaining an air of urban polish. Katie Eary, a key fixture of London Collections: Men, has teamed up with Northampton shoemakers Grenson to create a bang on trend cobalt blue pair this season.

Espadrilles – once much maligned – are perhaps the ultimate summer shoe, and have become a fundamental silhouette for holidaying. Traditionally crafted from canvas and jute rope, reflecting the design’s Riviera origins, they have been re-imagined in bright tones and luxe fabrics such as leather and suede for SS14, giving a more substantial feel to this classic lightweight style.

TOMS’ signature canvas espadrilles are perfect for beach-bound days or just a casual kick-around in the park on sultry weekends.

Men's Colour-Pop Slip-On Shoes and Loafers Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

Boots


Many gents choose to abandon boots when the mercury rises in favour of more lightweight footwear options. However, boots don’t have to be a cumbersome, winter-only affair. Less robust designs and clever hybrid styles built for the spring/summer climate have been on the rise recently.

With their smart combination of a suede desert boot upper and a jute espadrille sole, Christian Louboutin’s Cadaques boots are a smart investment this SS14. Elsewhere, Acne’s cobalt-blue Pedro boots will lend a bold accent to your springtime looks while seeing you comfortably through to autumn/winter.

For those a little wary of attracting too much attention to their feet, designs which incorporate a colour-pop accent are a much safer bet – take a look at Ask The Missus’ suede Chelsea boots with orange inserts, or Flossy’s suede desert boots featuring a contrast-tone sole and laces.

Men's Colour-Pop Boots Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

Lace-Ups


For gents looking to add a bit of flair to their smarter looks, there’s no shortage of lace-up styles that have been influenced by the pop-colour trend.

Traditionally a dress-down ‘country’ alternative to the formal Oxford, brogues are now considered a smart staple of the city dweller’s wardrobe and one of the most popular silhouettes available on the market.

SS14 sees the style offered in rich, warming tones as well as bright, energetic shades. Still retaining an air of refinement, these modern brogues are perfect for breaking up monochrome tailored looks with a bold accent. Try Oliver Sweeney’s Hakeston brogues with a sharply-cut pair of Prince of Wales check trousers and a freshly-pressed white shirt for an alternative office look.

Derby shoes present a more clean-lined approach to the colour-pop trend than brogues. Offered in smooth leathers or texture-rich suedes, these classic lace-ups will sit neatly with chinos or formal trousers. They’ll also look great worn with invisible socks and shorts when the weather really warms up.

Ami’s light turquoise blue suede Derbies feature a comfortable crepe sole and a fine suede upper. A smart, versatile shoe, they’ll pair equally well with cotton shorts and a Breton tee or slim-fit chinos and a linen shirt.

Men's Colour-Pop Lace-Up Shoes - Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

Trainers


With menswear’s obsession with sportswear still in full swing, trainers have evolved into evermore sophisticated takes on the traditional running shoe. These days, many specialist trainer brands and design houses seem to be engaged in a competition to see who can formulate the most ingenious colour and fabric combinations.

Athletic design-led styles, such as Ami’s suede and mesh sneakers and Valentino’s camo trainers, sport eye-catching pop-colour details for SS14 and succinctly capture the trend.

Iconic favourites Converse have also reinvented their celebrated canvas styles for the summer months, releasing bright canary yellow and peppermint green colour ways to reflect the warmer weather.

Trainers have gone beyond the confines of the gym and, if carried off correctly, can be slotted into both formal and casual looks. Admittedly, it does take a particularly style-confident gent to pull off a pair of trainers with a full suit, but if you choose the right trainers and opt for well-cut tailoring and accessories to complement, this tricky combination can look decidedly fresh and modern, particularly in high summer.

Men's Colour-Pop Trainer - Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

Night Terrors Of 1927 - Dust And Bones

Night Terrors Of 1927

Dust And Bones

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